Treats of Jaipur

Going back to Jaipur I had a second change at a lot of things.  I got to take some unexpected pictures of things that I missed the first time, or I just wanted to get that “perfect” shot.  It was actually a pretty quick visit, but the crowds were gone, which meant pictures without tons of people and waiting— waiting some more to get an unobstructed view.

In this part of the trip I went to City Palace, Hawa Mahal, and Jantar Mantar.  It was really hot, so we moved quickly through the spaces, and sat in the shade.  I even listened to some of the recorded guides (some good, others…were something else).  It was nice to have a second chance.

Hawa Mahal, in both directions.  When I was here last time it was not this empty.  It’s right on a major tourist street and full of traffic.  But this time, not so much.
Even have time for a quick shot!
Pretty windows– also known as “Honey Comb Palace”— but only because of the windows.
Inside City Palace, trying to stay in the shade.
Amazing color and tile work.
Peacocks everywhere!


And of course, suns with mustaches.


Jantat Mantar— Take two!  Where are all the people?


Still one of my favorite places in India.
Libra Symbol.
The cosmos.
Huge Sun Dial, which is actually close to the real time.


Jaipur – Round 2

In late February and early March I got to spend a week in Jaipur.  It truly is a jewel of a city.  Located in Rajasthan, it boasts one of the most visited cities on the “Golden Triangle” circuit.  I can see why.  It has a rich history of forts, palaces, majestic views and a number of locations for shoppers to buy all kinds of beautiful block print materials, tailors and seamstresses who can make anything you desire, and of course beautiful gems.  There is a lot to do in and around the city.  This time I made it to many places that were a little bit off the beaten track, but totally worth it.

The main reason for being in Jaipur was the Fulbright Conference.  Each year it is hosted in a different city in India.  All the Fulbright scholars that are in the country as well as neighboring countries in the Central Asia are invited to attend to share their research, listen, meet and make connections.  I was on a panel of educators to present what I had been working on with NalandaWay.  It was a great opportunity to listen to my colleagues, as well as listen to other researchers present on their subjects.

I felt fortunate to be a part of the whole experience.  Not only were we well taken care of at the hotel, I had a chance to extend my stay and take a printmaking workshop by a master printer.

This is going to be a series of posts, because it was a week long adventure in Jaipur.  It was an extremely interesting place to visit a second time. There were a lot of things I didn’t notice or experience the first time because I was mostly in heavy tourist areas.  This time I ventured out into other parts of the city, had a chance to visit some real neighborhoods and interact more with local people.  I also was able to compare my experiences in India. Having been in South India for two full months before traveling back to Jaipur, I realized that it was a much different place than Chennai.  Jaipur seemed to be a bit more conservative, and there was a clear dividing line between tourists and citizens.  I really  hadn’t experienced that in Chennai, even though it was obvious that I was an outsider.

I was glad I got to observe these kinds of experiences, it made me think about how India is such a diverse place, full of possibilities, challenges, experiences, and cultures.  There is no wrong, there is just different.  It’s hard for me to lump India into just one package now.  There isn’t just one India.  It would be like saying the United States is all the same.  Each region has it’s own special traditions, culture, and attitudes. The more I visited, observed and took part in the daily life, the more I learned about that particular place and myself.

Amazing view from my window, over to the right is where you would go to see Old Jaipur.
Roof top party!
Well appointed room, but later in the week I could hear everything that was happening below it….weddings, parties, turban ceremonies.
Carved wall in the hotel.
Strange prints in the elevator.
Turban wrapping ceremony.  I was engaged in this activity for at least an hour.


This woman was looking for her “date”.  I saw her come in, look around, and she couldn’t find him in the sea of turbans.


In the lobby area, every evening they had traditional Rajasthani dancers and musicians perform for the patrons. 

Something is going on down there.
Last meal in the restaurant.  The staff worked long shifts, we would be down there at any time of day and see the same staff.  This restaurant was called the 24/7 restaurant, and I think it meant that anyone who worked there, also worked that shift.  We were well taken care of.  The staff worked hard.
It actually stormed!

An arts camp, with the future in mind.

I took thousands of pictures while I was in India on the Fulbright. I carried my camera around with me wherever I went. The one time where I ran out of memory and battery power was the time I spent at the arts camp in Kuppam at the Agastya Foundation. I wanted to record everything I witnessed all the days I was there. The Kanavu Pattarai arts camp was something I wasn’t sure I was going to experience. Fortunately, I did. The experience was something that I will never forget.

This particular Kanavu Pattarai camp is supported by collaboration between the NalandaWay Foundation and the Agastya Foundation. NalandaWay provides the teachers, the curriculum, the resources, and Agastya Foundation provides the space. The camp pulls from near by towns. Both boys and girls, ages 13-16, attended this camp. It was not a residential experience but a day camp for 3 full days.

The first day students were introduced to each other and jumped right in on camp activities. The teachers organized the whole camp, and when there was some spots that needed an activity I filled in with yoga and a quick lesson in making origami cranes. I also participated in a trust exercise, which was really fun for all of us.

All the students were extremely excited to participate. They made a large amount of art in just three days, and presented on topics that were important to them and their school community. It just goes to show you, that when students are given a chance to perform, act, interact, create, make, design, and do—THEY WILL! Most of the students were really into the arts projects and produced a lot of amazing work together.

Collaboration is a big piece of the puzzle for this kind of camp, especially since the goal is to build a community of peers. One of the best parts of the camp for me was when the students were tasked with creating a group song. It was a huge challenge. Many students were very happy doing visual arts, or even making posters, and speaking. BUT singing? That was a big leap for some of them. Many of the students didn’t know what to do, or how they should attempt that particular task. However, there were a few girls who would not give up. While the group took a break from song writing, a couple of girls stayed back to finish the melody and lyrics. They were the only ones in the building, and I don’t think they were even aware that I was paying attention. What I saw was true collaboration, respect for one another, and the desire to come together to accomplish the task. These girls continued working on the song until everyone came back in the room. They shared their lyrics and taught the whole group of students the melody of the song. The other students were amazed, excited and couldn’t wait to be a part of the musical task once again.

As a group they practiced (led by the girls and a few other boys). The way the girls problem solved and helped their fellow peers was amazing. They reached out as a team to put something together that would bring a lot of joy to everyone in the whole entire room.

On a whole, this group exhibited a wide variety of talents and problem solving skills. I thought that this was a strength because they all had a particular way to exhibit that strength. It made the group of 30 kids extremely strong.   Students exhibited a lot of empathy and compassion for each other. Most times when one member of their group was having difficulty another would job in and say,” Maybe we try this?” The students always seemed like they were looking for ways to solve problems, think creatively, use the set limitations to their advantage, think outside the box to use limited art materials in a new way, and most importantly not give up on the project or each other. Only a few students really needed some extra help, but I think it was only because they had never had this much going on at once. Not much exposure to arts, not much exposure to group work and collaboration.

The Kanavu Pattarai camp is much more than a few days for kids to get away from school and have fun. This program is creating ways for kids to build their self-esteem, gain leaderships skills, practice problem solving, and be more self- aware. Without the arts, students are unable to see some the values that already exist within themselves. By providing arts camps, NalandaWay is essentially strengthening the school communities. The students who participate in these camps take everything back with them and share it at their school. They are able to talk about their experiences and show what they accomplished by participating in the camp.


The camp space.
Student receiving a welcome pin!


Camp rules.
Students creating their small group poster.
Student beginning work on her self portrait with a tiny mirror.
Decorative self portraits.  Using color and pattern as symbols.
Students had a lot of discussions with each other for collaborative projects.


Working on their community poster, discussing issues that are important to them and their community.


Presenting their community posters to all the other groups.


Me!  Teaching origami cranes, step by step.


Uma and I on a tour around Agastya.
All the camp goers and the teachers.
The lovely girls who put the song together.
Traveling to the camp spot.


Shadow puppets to tell a story.
Clay figures.


Trust game– “Crazy taxi”.


I was delighted to collaborate with NalandaWay on this program. I was able to expand the camp to five days, and add additional components like yoga and mindfulness. The more time we spend providing meaningful programs for youth to connect to each other and their own communities, the stronger we build the future for all of us.


The Aura of Auroville

After my experience at Auroville the very first time, of course I told everyone about it. So when people came to visit me, I had to take them to at least see it.  So on the second and third trips I took my good camera and got some better shots that were closer to the Matrimandir.  Still think it’s one of those amazing experiences that will live with me forever.  I still can’t get over being inside the Matrimandir and how quiet it was inside.


You take a little hike to get to the view point.  When it’s over 100 degrees, that can seem like an awful long walk.


Charlene and I taking a selfie break.


View point.
In all it’s golden glory– some day it’s supposed to be surrounded by bodies of water, like moats.
Parting peekabo  shot.


Tanjore Paintings

There is a classic style of painting that comes from Thanjavur in South India. Thanjavur, or Tanjore, was once the capital of the region and an important center in South Indian religion, art, and architecture. People from all over India (and the world) continue to make pilgrimages to visit temples and take part in traditional festivals and events throughout the year. The Government of India has preserved the temples and they are also considered a UNESCO World Heritage monuments.

Tanjore paintings are seen in these temples are became the known style in the region, as well as other places in India.  Even though the style is very particular to the city of Thanjavur, you can see local and regional differences in the subjects of the paintings. Tanjore paintings date back to 1600’s and primarily show Hindu subjects and temples. The colors are rich in color and have iconic compositions that focus around a center figure, object or temple. You can see lot of details and even inlays of glass and sometimes gems. And don’t forget about the gold foil!  You may even notice that Tanjore paintings were influenced by European styles of art that particularly were devoted to saints. Artists often painted visuals that complimented Hindu texts and familiar stories.

I’m excited to see some examples in person when I get to Chennai, there are a lot of galleries where you can view the paintings and many artists who still practice this style of Thanjavur. I like the use of color, and can see all the time and effort it takes to create the details that make the artwork stand out. I’m excited to also learn about the stories that are represented in the artwork, and understand why they are so important.

Painting of Sri Ganesha, photo credit:


The Sackler Gallery

Freer at night
Not today, but a few months ago when the galleries were open at night.

Today I went on my own field trip to the Sackler Museum in Washington, DC.  I’ve been there many times but I keep going back because they always acquire new art or have amazing exhibitions.  A few months a go I was there for the Peacock Room Remix.  It was an artist’s interpretation of the original Peacock Room that was made for a wealthy family in England.  The original Peacock room is housed in the Freer Gallery, but they’re connected.  So you can see the original and then hop on over to the Sackler to see the Remix.

I went to the Sackler with no idea about what I wanted to see but I stumbled upon this lovely gallery of Buddhas.  It’s pretty interesting.  They come from all over Asia, but the ones that come from near east look rather Eurocentric.  See if you can spot them below.  It’s just a great history lesson, because you realize how much travel and trade was happening all over Asia between 8th-12th century.  Not to mention the techniques involved in the creation of these sophisticated sculptures.  Most of the ones pictured are of metal, like copper, but there are a few others made out of precious materials and stones.

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